Grey Gravestone RIP

The Fashion

          When people think of goth, they tend to think of it aesthetically. The dark clothes, hair, weird accessories. Not many even fathom the idea of the music element of the subculture. In an interview done by Kim Kelly with Liisa Ladouceur, film maker of the infamous "40 Years of Goth" youtube video, she explains the importance of the fashion aspect to it all. She states, "Goth is a subculture that has a soundtrack. Yes, it’s about an appreciation for literature and history and art too, but at the core, it sprang from a music scene, and the main definition of a goth for a long time was someone who listens to goth music. Today, goth is more about the fashion—there are hardcore Lolita and steampunk goths who’ve never heard Joy Division or Marilyn Manson. And that’s OK, culture is meant to mutate." 
         
         As the music evolved, so did the people who enjoyed said music. From different genres emerged different looks that seemed to attach themselves to the music. But then again, just as Ladouceur admits, there are fashion trends and looks that arose simply because of the clothes, with no attachments to it's origination of music influence. But the most common ground would be: dark. For the most part, using colors like black is a symbolism to how goths are perceiving the world around them. Black symbolizes their comfort with the beauty of things such as death, darkness, and reality. While other common colors such as white, are seen as symbolism to mourning, a contrast to their dark. And red, which originates out of the fascination with vampirism. 
Ionela Florina Iacob explains this in her scientific journal, "Rethinking Goth, Identity as Style" where she explains the goth's mindset when it comes to fashion, "the clothes, the accessories and the make-up also provide the environment where each individual can exert his imagination and express his personality, but usually within the boundaries of some ideological and aesthetic criteria (reflecting the darkness and the beauty that is born in darkness)." (18). Although the goth subculture roots for the expression of one's self through their fashion, they also reprimand those who tend to articulate themselves out of the "legal boundaries" of what they would be defined as "goth". Therefore, a common ground was set. This is why, generally, if someone were to dress in bright sundresses and claim themselves as goth, many members of the subculture would reject their proposal. 

       
          Along with the affinity towards dark clothes, another common ground which many subcategories of gothic fashion have met is a physical verbalization of dismissing mainstream culture. Iacob continues her discussion by explaining the strain for goth fashion in which, "materializes in the attempt to break the so called contemporary aesthetic taboos. A significant example in this respect is the desire to break the patterns that separate the feminine from the masculine, as the outfit and the make-up reveal the tendency to cancel out gender differences. This aspect is materialised in promoting the androgynous figure or by the males’ use of items considered typically feminine (the skirt) and vice versa". (18)
        

          Although this still remains the case, the goth fashion trends still continue to this day, with the media using the term to describe any type of "darkness" used for a look. Such as the famous singer Rihanna, claiming herself as "ghetto goth" within some of her recent songs and looks. But because the term goth has redefined itself in a very modern age, and has evolved throughout the years, many looks that are associated with the goth alternative scene have developed.

Some definitive gothic styles include:

Batcave / Trad-goth: This style is the first original style that goth had developed into from the punk

brand. Batcave got it's name from a traveling goth scene in England in the eighties. Many people, to this day, owe it to the club Batcave in forming the social goth circle. It's what truly kicked the styles into popularity. Siouxsie Sioux, as mentioned before, is one of the best examples of the early, batcave fashion that had materialized. Large, puffy black hair accompanied by ripped fishnets, chains, and leather. There were a lot of accessories to garnish the outfits. The makeup was dramatic and large, painted on eyebrows and black eyeshadow. Most of the outfits were DIY projects, as the fashion was not commercialized until much later. This made outfits much more creative and rough. Goths nowadays complain that the commercialization of the brand is what redefined modern goth into something they are not proud of. 

Romantic Goth / Victorian Goth: While trad-goths are more likely to focus on the 80s scene of goth, romantics are more interested in old gothic literature and style. Typical clothing seen by romantic goths are velvet, lace, long capes, and flowy clothing. They tend to be a bit more emotional, creative and dreamy. They will sport lesser makeup, usually, focusing moreon the beauty of their clothing. As well, they tend to listen to more atmospheric type of music to accompany their love for poetry and literature. Victorian goths tend to have similar interests, but will generally wear older fashioned clothing. Such as corsets, ruffled cage dresses, and top hats. Accessories include things such as canes, roses, brooches, and medieval inspired jewelry and shoes.

Cybergoth: The rise and fall for this type of fashion sense was generally the nineties, although there are still a few rarities even to this day. This type of goth is almost the antithesis for what a goth constitutes for. They enjoy bright, neon colors accented by black. Other common accessories would be neon faux dreads, larger raver pants, and unique goggles. Jewelry, besides the chains, tend to be minimum but makeup is often outlandish. Perhaps the only reason these are still considered "goth"  is because the music evolved from industrial, which is heavily influenced and associated with goth. Cybergoth tends to be an embarrassment to other "judgy" close-minded people of the subculture, and you will generally see the more tradgoths cringe at the idea of cybergoth. 

Rivithead: As stated beforehand, in the evolution of goth music post, a rivithead is a person who considers themselves a fan of the industrial goth music scene. Many of them won't consider themselves "goth", but products of clothing can be found in the same shop and they will attend goth clubs. The clothing is very laid-back, and almost very similar to a cybergoth's clothing with a futuristic, dystopian look to it. There are no bright colors, but rather, usually grays and blacks. This is where you'll see things like trenchcoats popularize. Like the cybergoth, it's rise and fall was around the same, as the nineties was a sweetspot for revival in fashion and the scene.

Gothabilly: Although not as popular, I felt the need to place this in here for it's interesting aesthetic. A unique blend of the 50s rockabilly, along with the punkabilly scene found in the 80s. They usually have the pin-up styled dresses, with bright red lips and cherry accessories and imagery. Like other fashion groups like death rock, their style is more tongue-in-cheek, and purposely costumey for the purpose to be theatrical. 

Vampire Goth: The idea and association of vampires and goths came about as early as Bauhaus' song,"Bela Lugosi's Dead", as it was a song specifically about a vampire film at the time. Thus spring, this fashion sense. These are people who tend to romanticize vampiric literature and focus their fashion sense and lifestyle on one similar to a vampire. Very much so like a romantic, Victorian goth, where flowy gowns, lace and capes are seen, with a twinge of red accents to symbolism vampirism or blood. Common symbols used for vampire goths will be bats and religious jewelry. Ankhs and typically ornate cross necklaces are very popular for vampire goths. This affinity towards religious jewelry tends to be adopted by other goths, but the usage of cross symbolization initially cored itself in this fashion movement.



Pastel Goth: As I type this, I can hear all other types of judgmental goths gasp in horror. So that's why I'm placing it here. The pastel goth is something in which I personally gravitated towards, before realizing what a social wreck they are in association with the goth scene. Pastel goth is a very modern idea of goth, that had sprung from internet culture. It was essentially inspired by "cutesy" internet girls wanting to a more edgy look to their bright outfits. Many of them are non-traditional, do not know any of the associated music, and generally disrespectful towards the goth subculture, and only exploiting the usage of their symbolism to seem more "dark". Common fashion looks will be black, accented by an overusage of pastel pinks, blues, and purples. St Peter's Cross is commonly used in a bright pastel color, along with eyeballs, bats, and other "spooky" symbols. Other pastel colors are used, but it is generally along that selection. Many wear pastel wigs, long high socks, pastel skirts, and circle lenses in their eyes to make their pupils seem more doll-like.


Lolita / J-Goth: Lolita is a fashion sense that's been around very quite a long time. It's typically a style that is inspired by doll-like, innocent clothing. And while lolita has been around a long time, gothic lolita wasn't coined until a bit later. Common clothing types will be large dresses, with undercoats underneath to make their dress seem more lacey, doll-like and young. Generally, the dresses will be long sleeved, although on a rare occasion, you'll see this rule be disregarded. Bulky, large-platformed shoes with lacey long socks are also worn, to continue the youthful theme. It is overall seen as very costumey, but can look very nice if taken the time to put be put together well. Umbrellas are also not uncommon. Because lolita tends to be a fashion more popular in the Japanese culture, you will see this fashion sense thrive in Japan, or fans of Japanese culture. Thus, many are not associated with the original gothic scene, and are only using "goth" as a fashion term.

Nu-Goth: This is the gothic scene of today. Generally "modern" goth can be used as a defining term as well. Because the fashion scene is constantly evolving, nu-goths typically have a laid-back fashion sense, with subtleties towards goth. A lot of things they buy are from online or the mall, which makes them in a sense, a "mall goth". Although that term has a negative association and will be used by elder-goths to derail the young generation of goths cycling through. Typically, nu-goths can be found mixing mainstream fashion culture with goth culture, to reach an ultimatum of a trendy, dark fashion style. Tights are common, as well as simple black dresses with large platform shoes, chokers, and black lipstick. Makeup tends to be lesser than that of traditional goth's taste, but can still be slightly dramatic, depending on the nu-goth. While some will break the rule of "goth" and color in thick eyebrows, some will shave theirs off and pencil in thin lines. It is a case in which differs from person to person.



Other styles commonly associated with the goth subculture are: steampunk, metalheads, tribal, "emo", and corp goth.